Road trip 2016 | Jozini | Part II

Days 4 & 5 – Jozini

We left Mbabane at sunrise and headed south-east towards Jozini via Big Bend. When trying to buy a coffee in Manzini my smoking companion (with all due respect to him; not the “smoking hot” variety) got us thrown out at a petrol station. With panic in his eyes the station manager apparently didn’t feel comfortable with the idea of a burning cigarette a mere five meters from his petrol pumps.

Without coffee and grumbling tummies we left Manzini in a huff. The road from there to the Lavumisa border post is dreary at best but we kept at it and pulled in for a long overdue coffee and breakfast at the Nisela Restaurant. Signs of the drought were everywhere to see and none more so than at the pool in front of the restaurant’s deck. It normally is home to a couple of crocodiles but it was now bone dry.

The border crossing at Golela was uneventful. The Swazi border police are very trusting as they didn’t check the back of my panel van on entry or exit. Not that there was anything illegal in there. Due to our hasty planning we didn’t know whether there was a grocery store at Jozini and decided to do our shopping for necessary supplies at Pongola. With that out of the way we soon headed up the Lebombo mountain range and Jozini dam came into full view. It was the first time I had been on this fascinating road, snaking over the mountain and into Jozini gorge where the dam wall is situated. Traffic in town was chaotic due to Easter weekend and to our dismay we saw a Spar. Typical.

Jozini
Jozini dam at 40% capacity. Seen from Jozini Tiger Lodge.

Our destination was 10 kilometers east and down river of the Jozini dam wall at Pongola River Company. The detailed directions and Mr H’s navigational skills got us quite close to the tented camp but the dirt road suddenly vanished into sand and bush. Due to the Caddy’s abysmal off-road capabilities I was not going to try my luck going any further. The GPS showed that we were very near though, which prompted Mr H to search by foot. Twenty minutes later he arrived with the camp manager who led us then back to camp. We had somehow missed the correct turn off a hundred meters before from where we stopped.

Pongola river
“Flying Fish” was the only successful fishing being done. (Phone photo)

 

Fishing
Mr H attempting to fly fish some tiger fish.

I was blown away by the camp’s setting. It is on the Pongola River’s edge underneath beautiful sycamore fig trees. After unpacking, a fishing expedition in kayaks was in store for the afternoon. Although we didn’t manage to catch a single fish the experience was totally worth it. The water was surprisingly clear and it fascinated me to see how the local natives depend on the river either by washing, swimming, fishing or mining river sand.

Pongola River
A tranquil Pongola River at night.

We drifted downstream for about three kilometers. It always feels further though as it took us the whole afternoon to cover that distance. We were grateful to be driven back to camp. We opted for the self-catering option which is not a problem as there was a fire and we had tender meat and more than enough beer in the cooler. It irked Mr. H that he hadn’t yet caught a fish on the trip and he was soon off fishing. We were assured that there weren’t any crocodiles within two kilometers from the camp and that there were also no hippos.

Road trip
Dead tree with reflection.

With Mr H fishing and clouds rolling in overhead from the east it was the perfect opportunity for some night time photography. I don’t know what it was but the colours on these photos turned out just incredible. It is definitely some of my favourite photographs I’ve ever taken. Apart from one massive strike on my watch the fishing didn’t improve.

Dead tree
The dead amongst the living.

The next morning was a relaxing affair. To wake up in a tent next to the river was blissful. Coffee brewed on the fire and I could hear the chatter upstream of women doing their washing. Few things beat a hot shower under open skies and checking the loo for snakes. After brunch we had to get going and pull ourselves away from this amazing little paradise for we were on our way to St Lucia.

Dam wall
The impressive 80 meter high Jozini dam wall.

The road out was much easier than in. We stopped for a few photos at Jozini dam wall and then headed south on the N2. It was time to see the ocean.

Road trip 2016 | PART I

There comes a time when you need to hit the road. Hard. Take some time off. Escape from the slog of everyday life. Experience new scenery, company, food and more scenery. A road trip isn’t necessarily about where you’re going but more about just going. Anywhere. And with whom you are going.

On short notice a friend suggested we do a road trip. It sounded like an excellent idea at the time and it turned out to be just that. I didn’t really mind where to as long as I could point my camera at some new interesting, refreshing and dramatic landscapes I was in for the ride.

It was a week before Easter weekend and we hadn’t made a single reservation but my partner in crime, Mr. H came through strong and managed to find us sleeping place for every night bar the last night. This is just a summary of where we did what and some of my favourite photos from the trip.

Day 1 Road trip

Starting off in White River we made our way to the Kruger National Park’s Numbi Gate. Maybe it was the drought, maybe it was the time of day but our day through the park was quite uneventful. Apart from a pack of wild dogs in the shade and a pride of lions 300 meters across the river from where we were we didn’t see much action. This was more than made up for though by excellent music and ice cold refreshments in the car. We did exit at Crocodile Bridge next to Komatipoort where Mr. H wanted to do some tiger fishing in the Komati River. A strong wind picked up which would bring miserable weather the next day.

Road trip
A trickle of water flowing past me at the low level bridge in Komatipoort.

Filling up with some very “cheap” R9.96/liter diesel we made our way to the Buffalo Bar in Hectorspruit for sundowners before driving the short hop to Inkuba Game Lodge. The neat and spacious self-catering tented camp was a real treat after the long day on the road. It’s excellent value for money too at R350/person/night.

Day 2 Road trip

After coffee and rusks the next morning we headed for the Jeppes Reef Swaziland border post. Entry was no problem even though my panel van’s tail was dragging due to our “refreshment” cache that was replenished at Komatipoort. We made sure we had plenty of stock for at least the next few days through Swaziland. The weather was getting worse and we hit the mist and rain as we headed up the pass just before Pigg’s Peak.

Mr. H hadn’t been to the impressive Maguga Dam before so we headed down the Komati River valley. A spur of the moment idea for some fishing led to an unexpected journey into the very empty dam and it turned out to be a great afternoon of fun. To walk inside the eerie landscape of the dam where it normally would be submerged under thirty meters of water was quite surreal and made for some excellent long exposure photos.

Road trip
Inside an empty Maguga Dam. The water level rose slightly before we arrived as can be seen from the parched mud underneath the water’s surface.

 

Jetty
A lonesome jetty inside Maguga Dam.

Another bonus was that we were out of the rain and wind which was prevalent at the higher altitudes. After climbing the steep wall back up to the car we headed to Malolotja Nature Reserve, a short 15 minute drive from the dam.

It’s been about eight years since I had last been there and it still looked pretty much the same. It is an amazing place. It is pristine Swaziland in all its glory. It was freezing cold and our first priority was a fire in our cottage. An early seven kilometer hike the next morning delivered some breathtaking landscapes with clouds still swirling in the valleys.

Landscape
Stunning landscapes at Malolotja.

 

Brunsvigias
The incredible Brunsvigias. Unfortunately it was not in bloom.

An absolute must here is the canopy tour. One of only six in Southern Africa, it is located in a steep gorge in the park. Safety is paramount, and the system has been built to the highest civil engineering standards. Guides are trained professionals and this breath taking experience can be enjoyed by people of all ages. There are eleven zip lines zig zagging across the gorge as well as a suspension bridge. Watch Mr. H in action on one of them.

Malolotja
The exit point for the canopy tour.

Time was tight as our next stop for the day was Sibebe Rock, close to Mbabane. “Sibebe Rock”, an 800-meter-high monolith in, is the second largest exposed granite pluton in the world (after Ayers Rock in central Australia). After a quick beer in Mbabane and finding our accommodation for the evening we made our way to Sibebe. Dusk was a mere two hours away and we really wanted to climb it. Apparently there is a difficult direct route up but we couldn’t find the starting point so we instead started from the tourist point which approaches a long way from the north. We tried our best and climbed the height but in the end we had to admit defeat and watch the top of the rock from two kilometers away as the sun was setting behind the mountains. The hike was very scenic and easy to follow with yellow markers painted on rock all along the way.

Hike
Taking a breather halfway up to the top. Stunning vistas.

 

Sibebe Rock.
Sibebe Rock as seen from below at dusk. Swaziland’s only local beer is named after it.

 

Back at Bombaso’s Backpackers we met up with a few Americans working in Swaziland. We were spent though as we had hiked 17 kilometers during the day including a tough ascent. We had to be up early the next morning to make our way to Jozini via Big Bend. The tigers were waiting…

 

 

 

 

 

 

Climbing Legogote

This past Sunday morning I had the pleasure of hiking up the iconic Legogote. “The Legogote mountain is an impressive landmark between Hazyview and White River. To the east stretches the Lowveld and to the west the escarpment foothills in the Peebles area. The pinnacle is huge granite rocks and stands at 1194 meters.” – Peakery.com

My squash buddy Roy volunteered to show me the way up to the summit. We started just after 8AM from the Petra College entrance off the Numbi road. The hike starts with a steep angle for the first hundred meters but becomes then much more tolerable from there onwards.

The path is well trodden and easy to follow. It winds through two forests and after forty five minutes we reached the last section before the summit. There are two tricky rock scrambles before you reach the top. A 360 degree view of the Lowveld greets you once at the top. The summit marker was infested with gnats and we only spent a short while there before moving down to the bottom tier.

Summit
The summit.

There was a bit of haze which meant the view wasn’t crystal clear, but we could still see Crocodile Gorge to the South East, the Barberton mountains to the South, the Kaapschehoop mountains to the South West, Spioenkop close to Sabie and the Graskop escarpment to the North.

Legogote
View towards the south.

 

Snout
Legogote’s Snout.

Hiking

Resting

We also visited the Bushman paintings in the rock overhang just below the summit. This little cave would make the perfect overnight location for some stunning night photography. We hung around a bit longer to enjoy the views and then decided to make our way back as the humidity and temperature were notably rising. We arrived back at the car park before noon.

Legogote

Cave
View from the cave just below the summit.

Words of caution though, don’t underestimate the climb by not taking enough water with you. The humidity of the Lowveld means you expend much more liquid than at the higher altitudes of for instance the Drakensberg. If you’re a Lowvelder this is a hike you absolutely have to do once in your lifetime.

EJ

 

A walk to the edge of darkness | Part 2

In Part 1 we had spent two nights in Schoemanskloof at the secluded Falls Fish Farm. Our plan was originally to go back home on Sunday morning. As we sipped our coffee on the veranda it dawned upon on us to be in truth an exceptionally silly plan. Maybe a walk to the edge of darkness could light up our day.

Since moving to the Lowveld more than two years ago I hadn’t had the chance to visit Sudwala Caves. It was just around the corner from where we were so we packed up and made our way there. From the N4 it is situated about eight kilometers in on the R539.

I may or may not have been to Sudwala Caves before. No, substance abuse is not to blame for my failed memory. If I had been there I was simply too young to remember. Deja vu did occur once or twice during this visit but I can’t be sure. In any case, the steep walk up the stairs to the cave’s entrance did raise my heartbeat considerably.

Cards are accepted but due to weak signal the card machine is apparently often offline. It’s thus a good idea to arrive with cash. We didn’t. We were in luck though with the signal. Entrance fee is R90 per adult. Our tour started shortly thereafter.

Darkness

The tours seems to operate at fixed times instead of full groups so we set off with only one other couple on our forty five minute tour. I wish I could recount the impressive facts and figures our guide mentioned but it is just too much to remember and besides, I was there to take photos. All the info is on the Sudwala Caves Wiki page.

Monster

Four personal highlights of the tour included the super impressive P.R. Owen Hall which is seventy metres in diameter and thirty seven metres high. It beggars belief the crushing weight that span of rock arch is able to carry.

P R Owen

Secondly, the amount of time it takes for a stalactite to form… one hundred years for one measly centimeter! Thirdly was the mind bending Fairy Room.  It is accessed by walking hunched through a one metre diameter tunnel. Inside is a natural small pond with water. Lighting has been installed in the pond to showcase the perfect reflection. This is due to there not being a breath of wind in the cave. It’s so perfect that I had a hard time figuring out what I was looking at.

Fairy Room

You see three levels. The bottom of the pond. A thin line that seems suspended in air and the upper surface. What you’re actually looking at is the reflection of the rock, suspended above the pond, at the bottom and the water’s surface in the middle. It’s truly magical.

Hall

Last but not least. In the P.R. Owen Hall our guide switched off the lights. You don’t understand darkness until you’ve experienced this. I wondered afterwards if human eyes could adjust to the pitch blackness if it kept staring long enough? Probably not as no plants grow in the cave apart from the few spots where artificial light is projected. I have newfound respect for all those bats not smashing constantly into rock. For the record, I do know about echolocation…

Sudwala

There is a curio shop and restaurant adjacent to the cave’s entrance and also a dinosaur park charging R70 per adult. Maybe management could look into doing a cave/dinosaur park combo with a reduced price? I can’t see many parents doing both at the current price structure. Either way, it deterred me from entering.

All in all it was a wonderful activity. This makes the Cango Caves a must do when I’m again in the vicinity of Oudtshoorn.

EJ

 

A walk to the edge of darkness | Part 1

Driving out to Falls Fish Farm in Schoemanskloof on a late Friday afternoon it amazes me how many amazing outdoor spots there are close to White River, the town I live in. All along the Crocodile River valley you can tube raft, fish, cave, hike, mountain bike and scramble to your heart’s content. Just keep an eye out for those sneaky crocodiles and don’t go over the edge.

You’ll remember from my previous post the photos I took of “The Mountain Pandokkie” for their website and online brochure. This past weekend’s excursion there was for pleasure. Rain spit intermittently on the windshield as my travel buddy, Heinrich and I turn in at the farm. We don’t have any set plans for the weekend apart from some fishing, the odd hike and having a good time. My car doesn’t have high clearance for the road up the hill and Dee, the owner, is kind enough to drive us the three kilometers up to the cottage.

On arrival we meet Mia, the resident cat whose duty it is to keep the cottage clear of rats, mice and snakes. She clearly takes her job serious as I didn’t see any of the unwanted house guests during our stay. She was also kind enough to keep my feet warm while sleeping. Thanks Mia.

Cat

 

The rain abated soon after our arrival which opened the door for a braai, good music and some silly talk. We woke up in the morning to light rain. Two cups of steaming hot coffee and rusks sorted out the after effects of the previous evening’s escapades. We learned though that the dam next to the house was bone dry. As it was the only dam close to the cottage it meant no fishing but to his credit Heinrich took it in his stride and suggested a hike. A quick scan of the area’s hand drawn map and we were on our way into the bush. Objective: Find the two waterfalls.

Slip sliding down a steep hill we quickly stumbled upon the first waterfall. Due to the drought it was also dry but nonetheless a spectacular spot. Heinrich introduced me to art of rock tower building by stacking them in single file. His work leaves little to the imagination.

 

Heinrich

Imminent rain forced us back to the cottage where operation “Dry Trainers” commenced in earnest next to the fire. The party continued during mid day with Fokofpolisiekar and Marilyn Manson featuring heavily in the music playlist. Dutch courage started to run low so we decided to trek to the other waterfall. This spot on the farm is definitely worth visiting as there is a stunning vista of the kloof down below, covered in dense vegetation.

 

Edge

There is also a fun little five metre scramble down from the plateau into the waterfall.

Chimney

Careful not to slip on the slick surface we threw a few rocks over the waterfall’s edge to ascertain how high it is as we couldn’t see the bottom. Not a place at which I’d like to go over.

Edge

It was nice to be in a place not spoilt yet by man. Peculiar stone ruins are scattered all over the farm. There seems to be no consensus yet on how old they are but estimates range from 2000 to a hundred years.

I can highly recommend this retreat for an easy and relaxing weekend getaway. For bookings contact Dee at (+27) 82 789 8407.

In Part 2 we travel the next day to Sudwala Caves.

EJ

Falls Fish Farm | Cottage | Destination

A friend recently asked me whether I’d be interested to barter. Her proposal was for me to take photos of a cottage at Falls Fish Farm (which she does the marketing for) in exchange for a weekend at the said cottage. I couldn’t find a problem with taking photos and traveling to a new destination and promptly agreed to it.

On my way back to the Lowveld from Johannesburg on 26 January I popped in at the farm situated in Schoemanskloof valley. The owner, Dee, introduced herself and took me up the mountain on a rugged dirt road with her little SUV to the hidden stone cottage she affectionately calls “The Mountain Pandokkie“.

Dee’s warm personality immediately made me comfortable in her company. She did most of the talking which I found informative and it also meant I could take in the scenery. The road winds up the mountain and is flanked by indigenous bush. A boulder in the road suddenly blocked our progress. Apparently the baboons regularly protest over dangerous living conditions. A leopard patrols the area although it’s not often been spotted by her. No pun intended.

She showed me the footpaths that they have cut open and lamented on the amount of hard work it cost her to keep them clear.  After a five minute drive we arrived at the entrance. The Pandokkie is classified as a heritage building and is surrounded by ancient (and some believe) sacred stone circle ruins. The cottage is made out of stone and has a rustic feel to it. The rooms are spacious and from the wooden deck there is a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and the lower Schoemanskloof.

I’m glad to report that she is happy with the photos and that I will spend the next weekend there enjoying the fruits of my labour.

EJ

 

Destination

 

Mountain Pandokkie

Retreat

 

Cottage

 

Cottage

 

View

 

View

 

Pandokkie

“Take 5” – Week 44

2015/10/28

Today I’m starting a weekly Blog called “Take 5”. It’s basically a bit of indulgence on my side, posting the Top 5 pictures I took in the past week. Feel free to comment or suggest. Here we go…

 

 

Leya, Miniature greyhound, portrait, Take 5
Leia. Miniature greyhound.

 

Lamp cover, shade, light, pattern, Take 5
Lamp shade at Brasserie de Paris.

 

Stairway, Light, Shade, Contrast, Take 5
Stairway to the top. Brasserie de Paris.

 

 

 

Vetplant, Macro, Droplets, Take 5
Every drop you catch I’ll be watching you.

 

Bratissirie de Paris, Bridge, Take 5
Brassirie de Paris.

Mpumalanga School Trials Gala – 2015/10/03

Swim, Gala, B&W

2015/10/07

Swim, Gala, B&W
ISO 400, 260mm, f/9, 1/1600s

Last weekend I attended the Mpumalanga School Trials Gala that was held at Van Riebeeck Park, Nelspruit. Swimming is quite an interesting and difficult subject to photograph. The water and subject constantly changes shape and position thus creating interesting reflections, splashes and light bends. Focusing is a challenge due to the swimmer’s continuous movement and the camera sometimes hunting the water droplets.

It was therefore a fun-filled morning experimenting with new techniques. Blue is a beautiful colour but I tried something different by going for the chrome look. I can definitely recommend shooting swimmers as a way to get a much better understanding of how your camera works. Just make sure the dial is not on AUTO. The question to ask is whether to shoot in Aperture, Shutter or Manual Mode. The rule of thumb for sports photography is Shutter Speed Priority but nothing stops you from also trying Aperture or Manual mode. The advantage with Shutter Priority is that your shutter speed is set and the camera then decides what your Aperture should be once you’ve dialed in the ISO number. Here’s a cheat sheet to better understand the relationship between ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed.

Swim, Gala, B&W
ISO 400, 260mm, f/9, 1/1250s

 You’ll need a telephoto lens to get close to the action, preferably more than 100mm. To freeze the action you need a shutter speed of at least 1/1000th of a second or faster. With an aperture of f/9 to get an adequate depth of field on the subject the ISO inevitably has to go up to get a good exposure. You could go the other way though and convey motion by slowing the shutter speed considerably. You can then bring the ISO down for a better quality picture but a deeper depth of field (higher f-stop) would be required to maintain a balanced exposure on your histogram. I found it beneficial to focus slightly ahead of the subject before pressing the shutter as this ensures the focus point is on and not behind the swimmer by the time you actually do press the shutter.

 

Swim, Gala, B&W
ISO 400, 135mm, f/8, 1/1600s

EJ

How to capture a flower in high key lighting

Macro, lily, close up, detail

High Key, still life, flower, macro

A fun indoor photo exercise is capturing a flower of your choice in high key lighting. High-key lighting simply refers to images that are mostly bright, with a range of light tones and whites and not many blacks or mid-tones.

What you’ll need:

1. Flower with its stem
2. Clamp
3. White background
4. Tripod
5. Camera
6. External flash unit

In a room well-lit with natural light set up your flower in front of a white background. I used an A2 white sheet of paper. I also used a 105mm macro lens for this picture but any 18-55mm kit lens will work just as well. Zoom out as far as you can so the flower nearly fills the frame and then set up your tripod at this spot.

Make use of manual focus on LIVE view and choose the focal point. Shoot in Aperture priority mode with ISO 100 for the best possible quality and f-stop of 5.6 for a shallow depth of field. Overexpose by 2 stops (+2EV) with your exposure compensation. All that’s left to do is aim your external flash at a white background (like the ceiling) that will bounce the light towards the flower. Make use of TTL (through the lens) mode on the external flash and adjust the flash’s exposure compensation to achieve the desired result if the first few photos are either too dark or too bright.

Once you master the technique your portrait and product photography will greatly benefit from the high key treatment.

If you’re looking for more info on how to shoot different subjects in high key here’s a more detailed tutorial at Photography.Tutsplus.com

EJ

Picture perfect sky

Fig tree, cirrus clouds, amazing sky

Fig tree, cirrus clouds, amazing sky

There are few things as depressing as a blue sky for a photographer . Where I live in the Lowveld the scenery is above average, but unfortunately the climate lends itself to maybe 100 cloudy days per year. So when I woke up this morning and saw cirrus clouds streaking across a deep blue sky I hoped to get a decent picture of anything sometime during the day.

This fig tree stands close to our home. Pristine bushveld has been obliterated to make way for profitable agriculture. A sad but undeniable death knell for the Lowveld bush. It will only stop once there is nothing left to bulldoze over. This tree has somehow avoided the chop up until now. How, I don’t know. Maybe it is its size, shape or age.

A blocked water pipe from the canal have had us digging now for close to two weeks to find the problem. The roots from another fig tree higher up the road made its way into the pipe and caused the blockage. This pipe also runs close to the pictured tree. Its days might therefore be numbered…

Instead of using a wide angle lens I stitched eight portrait photos together with a 24mm lens to make this panorama.

Another pano close by in colour of Likweti Estate that was once a private reserve but will now soon be covered by Macadamias.

Road, pano, Likweti, fence, cirrus cloud

EJ