A walk to the edge of darkness | Part 2

In Part 1 we had spent two nights in Schoemanskloof at the secluded Falls Fish Farm. Our plan was originally to go back home on Sunday morning. As we sipped our coffee on the veranda it dawned upon on us to be in truth an exceptionally silly plan. Maybe a walk to the edge of darkness could light up our day.

Since moving to the Lowveld more than two years ago I hadn’t had the chance to visit Sudwala Caves. It was just around the corner from where we were so we packed up and made our way there. From the N4 it is situated about eight kilometers in on the R539.

I may or may not have been to Sudwala Caves before. No, substance abuse is not to blame for my failed memory. If I had been there I was simply too young to remember. Deja vu did occur once or twice during this visit but I can’t be sure. In any case, the steep walk up the stairs to the cave’s entrance did raise my heartbeat considerably.

Cards are accepted but due to weak signal the card machine is apparently often offline. It’s thus a good idea to arrive with cash. We didn’t. We were in luck though with the signal. Entrance fee is R90 per adult. Our tour started shortly thereafter.

Darkness

The tours seems to operate at fixed times instead of full groups so we set off with only one other couple on our forty five minute tour. I wish I could recount the impressive facts and figures our guide mentioned but it is just too much to remember and besides, I was there to take photos. All the info is on the Sudwala Caves Wiki page.

Monster

Four personal highlights of the tour included the super impressive P.R. Owen Hall which is seventy metres in diameter and thirty seven metres high. It beggars belief the crushing weight that span of rock arch is able to carry.

P R Owen

Secondly, the amount of time it takes for a stalactite to form… one hundred years for one measly centimeter! Thirdly was the mind bending Fairy Room.  It is accessed by walking hunched through a one metre diameter tunnel. Inside is a natural small pond with water. Lighting has been installed in the pond to showcase the perfect reflection. This is due to there not being a breath of wind in the cave. It’s so perfect that I had a hard time figuring out what I was looking at.

Fairy Room

You see three levels. The bottom of the pond. A thin line that seems suspended in air and the upper surface. What you’re actually looking at is the reflection of the rock, suspended above the pond, at the bottom and the water’s surface in the middle. It’s truly magical.

Hall

Last but not least. In the P.R. Owen Hall our guide switched off the lights. You don’t understand darkness until you’ve experienced this. I wondered afterwards if human eyes could adjust to the pitch blackness if it kept staring long enough? Probably not as no plants grow in the cave apart from the few spots where artificial light is projected. I have newfound respect for all those bats not smashing constantly into rock. For the record, I do know about echolocation…

Sudwala

There is a curio shop and restaurant adjacent to the cave’s entrance and also a dinosaur park charging R70 per adult. Maybe management could look into doing a cave/dinosaur park combo with a reduced price? I can’t see many parents doing both at the current price structure. Either way, it deterred me from entering.

All in all it was a wonderful activity. This makes the Cango Caves a must do when I’m again in the vicinity of Oudtshoorn.

EJ

 

A walk to the edge of darkness | Part 1

Driving out to Falls Fish Farm in Schoemanskloof on a late Friday afternoon it amazes me how many amazing outdoor spots there are close to White River, the town I live in. All along the Crocodile River valley you can tube raft, fish, cave, hike, mountain bike and scramble to your heart’s content. Just keep an eye out for those sneaky crocodiles and don’t go over the edge.

You’ll remember from my previous post the photos I took of “The Mountain Pandokkie” for their website and online brochure. This past weekend’s excursion there was for pleasure. Rain spit intermittently on the windshield as my travel buddy, Heinrich and I turn in at the farm. We don’t have any set plans for the weekend apart from some fishing, the odd hike and having a good time. My car doesn’t have high clearance for the road up the hill and Dee, the owner, is kind enough to drive us the three kilometers up to the cottage.

On arrival we meet Mia, the resident cat whose duty it is to keep the cottage clear of rats, mice and snakes. She clearly takes her job serious as I didn’t see any of the unwanted house guests during our stay. She was also kind enough to keep my feet warm while sleeping. Thanks Mia.

Cat

 

The rain abated soon after our arrival which opened the door for a braai, good music and some silly talk. We woke up in the morning to light rain. Two cups of steaming hot coffee and rusks sorted out the after effects of the previous evening’s escapades. We learned though that the dam next to the house was bone dry. As it was the only dam close to the cottage it meant no fishing but to his credit Heinrich took it in his stride and suggested a hike. A quick scan of the area’s hand drawn map and we were on our way into the bush. Objective: Find the two waterfalls.

Slip sliding down a steep hill we quickly stumbled upon the first waterfall. Due to the drought it was also dry but nonetheless a spectacular spot. Heinrich introduced me to art of rock tower building by stacking them in single file. His work leaves little to the imagination.

 

Heinrich

Imminent rain forced us back to the cottage where operation “Dry Trainers” commenced in earnest next to the fire. The party continued during mid day with Fokofpolisiekar and Marilyn Manson featuring heavily in the music playlist. Dutch courage started to run low so we decided to trek to the other waterfall. This spot on the farm is definitely worth visiting as there is a stunning vista of the kloof down below, covered in dense vegetation.

 

Edge

There is also a fun little five metre scramble down from the plateau into the waterfall.

Chimney

Careful not to slip on the slick surface we threw a few rocks over the waterfall’s edge to ascertain how high it is as we couldn’t see the bottom. Not a place at which I’d like to go over.

Edge

It was nice to be in a place not spoilt yet by man. Peculiar stone ruins are scattered all over the farm. There seems to be no consensus yet on how old they are but estimates range from 2000 to a hundred years.

I can highly recommend this retreat for an easy and relaxing weekend getaway. For bookings contact Dee at (+27) 82 789 8407.

In Part 2 we travel the next day to Sudwala Caves.

EJ

Falls Fish Farm | Cottage | Destination

A friend recently asked me whether I’d be interested to barter. Her proposal was for me to take photos of a cottage at Falls Fish Farm (which she does the marketing for) in exchange for a weekend at the said cottage. I couldn’t find a problem with taking photos and traveling to a new destination and promptly agreed to it.

On my way back to the Lowveld from Johannesburg on 26 January I popped in at the farm situated in Schoemanskloof valley. The owner, Dee, introduced herself and took me up the mountain on a rugged dirt road with her little SUV to the hidden stone cottage she affectionately calls “The Mountain Pandokkie“.

Dee’s warm personality immediately made me comfortable in her company. She did most of the talking which I found informative and it also meant I could take in the scenery. The road winds up the mountain and is flanked by indigenous bush. A boulder in the road suddenly blocked our progress. Apparently the baboons regularly protest over dangerous living conditions. A leopard patrols the area although it’s not often been spotted by her. No pun intended.

She showed me the footpaths that they have cut open and lamented on the amount of hard work it cost her to keep them clear.  After a five minute drive we arrived at the entrance. The Pandokkie is classified as a heritage building and is surrounded by ancient (and some believe) sacred stone circle ruins. The cottage is made out of stone and has a rustic feel to it. The rooms are spacious and from the wooden deck there is a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and the lower Schoemanskloof.

I’m glad to report that she is happy with the photos and that I will spend the next weekend there enjoying the fruits of my labour.

EJ

 

Destination

 

Mountain Pandokkie

Retreat

 

Cottage

 

Cottage

 

View

 

View

 

Pandokkie

Favourite 7 | 2015

It’s hard to believe that another year has come and gone. What’s even more remarkable is that we’ve passed this decade’s halfway mark. 2015 has definitely been one crazy year.

Terrorists stepped up their game with the Charlie Hebdo and Paris attacks as well as the downing of a Russian airliner over Egypt. A shocking story that had the “it could happen to me” factor was the Germanwings crash in the Alps.

Photography technology relentlessly advanced with the improvement of mirrorless and micro four thirds cameras, touted to replace DSLRs in the not too distant future. Front in the queue was Sony’s A7 mirrorless, lighter and smaller than a DSLR but with image quality and autofocus speed being reported just as good as high end DSLRs.

Photography-wise it’s been a massive step for me in the right direction this year. I got my own website going, had my first wedding, engagement, portrait and family shoots, worked on building my portfolio (which is a never-ending endeavour) and acquired the necessary gear to take professional photos. I also completed the MatadorU Fundamentals of Travel Photography course which helped me a lot to pay more attention to the finer details of settings and what’s in the viewfinder before pressing the shutter release button. I also attended a flash photography workshop with Andrew Schoeman which opened up a whole new set of opportunities and creativity in that field.

From day to day it sometimes feels as if I’m standing still as a photographer but it always fascinates me to see the improvement when I look back at older photos. The only way to learn is also just to take on new challenges that might fall outside of your comfort zone. It’s not until you’ve tried it and seen the mistakes you make that you can learn from it and move on.

I want to thank the customers who made use of my service this year. The experience I gained has been invaluable. To choose my favourite seven photos I took in 2015 was not easy. My main criteria were feel good factor and effort involved to capture the photo. Feel free to leave a comment.

Blyde River Canyon, Eksteen Jacobsz, Landscape
Blyde River Canyon, Mpumalanga | 2015/03/15

A quick Sunday trip from White River. I waited in vain for the sun to break through the clouds but instead got this moody atmosphere. With the help from MatadorU’s mentors I was able to get the most out of this photo through editing in Lightroom.

 

solitary tree, eksteen jacobsz, landscape, veld
R38 between Carolina and Badplaas | 2015/06/29

One bitter cold winter morning with a fowl north westerly howling along the grasslands. I almost didn’t stop due to the unpleasant weather but this solitary tree really stood out against the stark landscape.

Margate, Sunrise, Sea, Long exposure
Manaba Beach, Margate | 2015/03/31

Early bird catches the worm. I found this spot at dawn to be ready for sunrise at 6am. I hoped for sunlight to paint the clouds red before sunrise but it unfortunately never materialised.

Wedding, Blue gum trees, Flash
Edrich & Shinhye at Pretoria Country Club | 2015/10/17

An old friend of mine from primary school days, Edrich,  had a very unique traditional Korean wedding ceremony and I was fortunate to be their photographer. Their striking outfits were complimented by the picturesque venue. This was the first time I tried out my remote control flash.

Storm, Pano, Landscape
Lowveld storm, Primkop Dam, White River | 2015/11/26

I was fortunate to live here for almost two years. As I sat on the porch this storm moved from left to right. At first I wasn’t too interested in it but then suddenly it evolved into this majestic mushroom-like storm cell. Just before the rain hit I was able to take the shots for the panorama as a 24mm lens could not possibly have captured the entire scene.

Band Photography
Adele Fouche, Saarkie @ Tasaky, White River | 2015/12/03

Rock’n’Roll…cool. Pretty girls playing rock’n’roll…the best. A friend invited me to check Saarkie out and I was pleasantly surprised. The biggest challenge was to isolate the subject from the poor lighting and background. Usually I’d use no flash but by bouncing my flash I was able to achieve the desired lighting. This was also the first time I went into the unknown territory of ISO 12800! The velvet/creamy texture is achieved by removing the high ISO’s grain in post editing.

 

Horses, sunset, favourite
Tweefontein farm, Estancia | 2015/12/26

This one snuck in through the backdoor. Maybe sentimental value played a small part. The grass isn’t this short due to the horses being excellent lawnmowers. The current drought in South Africa is very prevalent on the Mpumalanga highveld. After a much needed and blessed rain storm the remaining clouds were painted red by the setting sun.

 

Have a happy New Years and a prosperous 2016.

 

EJ

“Take 5” – Week 44

2015/10/28

Today I’m starting a weekly Blog called “Take 5”. It’s basically a bit of indulgence on my side, posting the Top 5 pictures I took in the past week. Feel free to comment or suggest. Here we go…

 

 

Leya, Miniature greyhound, portrait, Take 5
Leia. Miniature greyhound.

 

Lamp cover, shade, light, pattern, Take 5
Lamp shade at Brasserie de Paris.

 

Stairway, Light, Shade, Contrast, Take 5
Stairway to the top. Brasserie de Paris.

 

 

 

Vetplant, Macro, Droplets, Take 5
Every drop you catch I’ll be watching you.

 

Bratissirie de Paris, Bridge, Take 5
Brassirie de Paris.

Mpumalanga School Trials Gala – 2015/10/03

Swim, Gala, B&W

2015/10/07

Swim, Gala, B&W
ISO 400, 260mm, f/9, 1/1600s

Last weekend I attended the Mpumalanga School Trials Gala that was held at Van Riebeeck Park, Nelspruit. Swimming is quite an interesting and difficult subject to photograph. The water and subject constantly changes shape and position thus creating interesting reflections, splashes and light bends. Focusing is a challenge due to the swimmer’s continuous movement and the camera sometimes hunting the water droplets.

It was therefore a fun-filled morning experimenting with new techniques. Blue is a beautiful colour but I tried something different by going for the chrome look. I can definitely recommend shooting swimmers as a way to get a much better understanding of how your camera works. Just make sure the dial is not on AUTO. The question to ask is whether to shoot in Aperture, Shutter or Manual Mode. The rule of thumb for sports photography is Shutter Speed Priority but nothing stops you from also trying Aperture or Manual mode. The advantage with Shutter Priority is that your shutter speed is set and the camera then decides what your Aperture should be once you’ve dialed in the ISO number. Here’s a cheat sheet to better understand the relationship between ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed.

Swim, Gala, B&W
ISO 400, 260mm, f/9, 1/1250s

 You’ll need a telephoto lens to get close to the action, preferably more than 100mm. To freeze the action you need a shutter speed of at least 1/1000th of a second or faster. With an aperture of f/9 to get an adequate depth of field on the subject the ISO inevitably has to go up to get a good exposure. You could go the other way though and convey motion by slowing the shutter speed considerably. You can then bring the ISO down for a better quality picture but a deeper depth of field (higher f-stop) would be required to maintain a balanced exposure on your histogram. I found it beneficial to focus slightly ahead of the subject before pressing the shutter as this ensures the focus point is on and not behind the swimmer by the time you actually do press the shutter.

 

Swim, Gala, B&W
ISO 400, 135mm, f/8, 1/1600s

EJ

Heritage Day / Make a braai of it (Proudly South African)

Cradle Of Life, Badplaas, Star Trail, Eksteen Jacobsz

24 September marks Heritage Day in South Africa. South Africans across the spectrum are encouraged to celebrate their culture and the diversity of their beliefs and traditions, in the wider context of a nation that belongs to its entire people. That’s according to Wikipedia. Most people though prefer to just come together with a couple of friends and have one BIG braai.

But, in the spirit of all things South African I’d like to share three photos, each showcasing the breathtaking beauty nature in our beloved country has to offer.  The first two photos were taken practically on my doorstep and the third from my porch. Which  just go to show that us Lowvelders don’t need to travel far to experience nature in all its glory.

Heritage need not be physical. What does Heritage Day mean to you as a South African? What makes you proud to be South African? For me it is:

  1. Standing on the escarpment of the mighty Drakensberg, seeing the distant rolling hills of Natal far down beneath me.
  2. My ancestors trekking north from the Cape to start a new life, fighting every day for survival in a wild land.
  3. Singing the national anthem during a Springbok vs All Black rugby test.
  4. Visiting the Kruger National Park and experiencing the bushveld with all its dangers and spectacular sightings.
  5. Making a fire in the bush with something cold in the hand while watching the sun set.
Heritage, Cradle Of Life, Badplaas, Star Trail, Eksteen Jacobsz
Cradfle Of Life, Badplaas

 

Heritage, Blyde River Canyon, Eksteen Jacobsz, Landscape
Blyde River Canyon, Mpumalanga

 

Heritage, Veld fire, night, Eksteen Jacobsz, Primkop Dam
Veld fire, Primkop Dam

 

As I’m writing this a late afternoon thunderstorm hits us with accompanying wind, lightning and hail. Thunderstorms aren’t endemic to South Africa but there are few places where a thunderstorm can shake the foundations of your house or heart like here.

Have a happy Heritage day and remember, whatever you do keep those lamb chops juicy.

 

EJ

 

How to capture a flower in high key lighting

Macro, lily, close up, detail

High Key, still life, flower, macro

A fun indoor photo exercise is capturing a flower of your choice in high key lighting. High-key lighting simply refers to images that are mostly bright, with a range of light tones and whites and not many blacks or mid-tones.

What you’ll need:

1. Flower with its stem
2. Clamp
3. White background
4. Tripod
5. Camera
6. External flash unit

In a room well-lit with natural light set up your flower in front of a white background. I used an A2 white sheet of paper. I also used a 105mm macro lens for this picture but any 18-55mm kit lens will work just as well. Zoom out as far as you can so the flower nearly fills the frame and then set up your tripod at this spot.

Make use of manual focus on LIVE view and choose the focal point. Shoot in Aperture priority mode with ISO 100 for the best possible quality and f-stop of 5.6 for a shallow depth of field. Overexpose by 2 stops (+2EV) with your exposure compensation. All that’s left to do is aim your external flash at a white background (like the ceiling) that will bounce the light towards the flower. Make use of TTL (through the lens) mode on the external flash and adjust the flash’s exposure compensation to achieve the desired result if the first few photos are either too dark or too bright.

Once you master the technique your portrait and product photography will greatly benefit from the high key treatment.

If you’re looking for more info on how to shoot different subjects in high key here’s a more detailed tutorial at Photography.Tutsplus.com

EJ

Picture perfect sky

Fig tree, cirrus clouds, amazing sky

Fig tree, cirrus clouds, amazing sky

There are few things as depressing as a blue sky for a photographer . Where I live in the Lowveld the scenery is above average, but unfortunately the climate lends itself to maybe 100 cloudy days per year. So when I woke up this morning and saw cirrus clouds streaking across a deep blue sky I hoped to get a decent picture of anything sometime during the day.

This fig tree stands close to our home. Pristine bushveld has been obliterated to make way for profitable agriculture. A sad but undeniable death knell for the Lowveld bush. It will only stop once there is nothing left to bulldoze over. This tree has somehow avoided the chop up until now. How, I don’t know. Maybe it is its size, shape or age.

A blocked water pipe from the canal have had us digging now for close to two weeks to find the problem. The roots from another fig tree higher up the road made its way into the pipe and caused the blockage. This pipe also runs close to the pictured tree. Its days might therefore be numbered…

Instead of using a wide angle lens I stitched eight portrait photos together with a 24mm lens to make this panorama.

Another pano close by in colour of Likweti Estate that was once a private reserve but will now soon be covered by Macadamias.

Road, pano, Likweti, fence, cirrus cloud

EJ

Air Aventures

Reunion Island

Reunion IslandI step into Air-Aventures’ big hangar at Aerodrome de Pierrefonds in Reunion Island. A man in Aviator Ray-Bans walks briskly up to me and introduces himself as my pilot. “The weather doesn’t look great, but hopefully the clouds will give us space,” he says. “Let me make a quick call to the Meteorology experts.” He calls, nods and says, “We are good to go.” I feel immense relief. I’m on holiday for only a week and today’s the sole chance I have to see Reunion Island from the air.

Where?

Reunion Island is a French island with a population of 840 000 inhabitants located in the Indian Ocean, east of Madagascar, about 200 kilometres southwest of Mauritius, the nearest island. The island is 63 kilometres long, 45 kilometres wide and is located above a hotspot in the Earth’s crust. The climate in Reunion is tropical but temperature moderates with elevation.

Off into the sun

Alain helps me into his FK9 light plane and helps me strap in. A few minutes later Air Traffic Control gives us take-off clearance for runway three three. Alain says “D’accord!” and push the throttle fully forward. Within seconds we leave the huge tarmac field.

The cool morning air aids our 80hp FK9 to a climb rate of one thousand five hundred feet per minute. A slow 180 degree turn steers us towards the east of the island. Saint-Pierre, which is the third largest city in the French overseas department of Reunion, comes into view. To our left below the Saint-Etienne River snakes from Cirque de Cilaos towards the sea. House-sized boulders are strewn all along the river bed. Alain completes his radio transmissions. I ask how many hours he has flown to date. “Many. I flew for the French Air Force.” I ask which he preferred, the air force or this island gig? He laughs. “Every day I get to see this.”

Layout

There are three Cirques on Reunion; amphitheatre-like valley heads created by the caldera collapse of the now extinct Piton Des Neiges volcano. The sun’s rays pierce through gaps in the clouds onto Cirque de Cilaos’ fortress-like mountain faces. The Cirque’s formidable granite ridge rises through the swirling mist. Soon the symmetrical suburbs of Saint-Pierre beneath us give way to a lush green countryside chequered with cloud shadows. I feel the air temperature drop through the camera hole in the passenger window.

Onwards and upwards we climb from sea level to our destination altitude. Eight minutes into the flight we break through the top clouds and four minutes later we reach 10 000 feet to level off and cruise at ninety five knots. In the distance Piton de la Fournaise’s (The Peak of the Furnace) massive black dome breaches the white cloud blanket. I squint at the bright contrast of blue skies and cotton white clouds.

Piton de la Fournaise

We arrive above the volcano. There is rock as far as the eye can see. The secondary caldera measures eight kilometres in diameter. Topping out at 8 635 feet the summit is not far below us. We circle clockwise twice. The first time around I take in the view. The second time around I keep my camera’s shutter button pressed in continuous burst mode.

Emotions well up in me. The sheer scale of the volcano is beyond belief. Alain tells me, “The most recent eruption was two months ago, quite small, but the previous big one was in 2007.” “I plan to hike around the volcano tomorrow and I’m grateful for the privilege to see the whole volcano.”

Piton Des Neiges

Too soon we turn inland and a new mountain, Piton Des Neiges (Snow Peak) fills the windscreen. The landscape turns from barren wasteland to dense rain forest. We cross the road connecting Saint-Louis, on the south of the island, to Saint-Benoit on the east. We seem to scrape over Cirque de Cilaos’ eastern rim to see the entire Cirque and the cathedral-like Piton Des Neiges. Low clouds and mist swirl in the valleys, but the mountain tops are clear. I can believe that the average gradient from sea level, only 16 kilometres away, to Piton des Neiges’ 10 069 feet summit is a staggering nineteen percent.

Three miles further on Cirque de Mafate opens up towards our right. Its massive sheer western rim rises from the valley below at an impossible angle. I want to see and experience more, but Alain’s on a tight schedule. As we skim over the western rim he cuts the aircraft’s power and we glide all the way back to sea level, the whole time not much higher than a thousand feet from the cascading surface of the extinct volcano.

Turning home

My mind’s a haze. My body’s on full-bore adrenaline. Pure euphoria. “How is it possible to have such a diverse landscape on a 2500 km² island?” I ask myself. Like the islands of Hawaii, Reunion is a fine example of volcanic paradox.

Alain pilots us along the cobalt blue Indian Ocean on our downwind approach to runway fifteen. “Did you enjoy that, was it good?” he asks. I can see his mind’s already racing ahead to the next flight, but for me the fun is nearly over. The flight’s fare is steep, but it’s an experience that will last me a lifetime.